THE MEAL
Wine: Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2009
First Courses: Young Beets (with arugula, sweet almonds, fennel lemonade, and gorgonzola); Tender Beef Tartare (with mustard "yolk," caper, berbere sauce)
Second Courses: Vanilla Poached Lobster (with butternut squash tortelloni, lobster bisque, and pancetta foam); Diver Scallop (with bacon powder)
Third Courses: Lemongrass Cured Duck Breast (with gingered sprouts, fo-mole, and foie gras); Tandoori Spiced Salmon (with fermented yucca couscous and shrimp essence)
Fourth Courses: Filet of Beef (with porcini raviolo, roasted grape wine, and foie butter)
THOUGHTS
For Valentine's Day 2011, I made reservations at Farrah Olivia. Formerly located in Alexandria and routinely rated as a Top 20 restaurant by Washingtonian, I had never been before; however, Chef Morou's reputation (beating Bobby Flay on Iron Chef) and beautiful food (see the restaurant's website) precede him.
The menu provides options for a 3 course meal, a 4 course meal, or a 5 course meal. After ordering our wine, our server (who reminded me, bizarrely, of Mr. Magoo) brought out Chef Morou's amuse bouche for the evening: an oyster with a sweet yuzu-based broth and a vegetable empanada. As we considered our dining options, the amuse bouche was a lovely start to the meal.
I began my meal with the Young Beets, served with arugula, gorgonzola, almonds, and apples atop a fennel lemonade vinagrette. The vinaigrette, a vibrant seafoam greenish-blue, provided an abstract canvas upon which the other ingredients were artfully arranged. While I did not want to destroy this work of art, I found it in me to eat the entire plate -- a light and refreshing start to the meal.
For my second course, I ordered the Vanilla Poached Lobster. Chef Morou served this course in a deep bowl, with layers of flavor: a base of lobster bisque, a large (almost donut-sized) butternut squash tortelloni resting atop the lobster bisque, two hunks of vanilla-poached lobster claw resting on the tortelloni, and topped with a pancetta foam. While all of the flavors married well together, the sweetness of the butternut squash and vanilla-poached lobster was the star of this dish (balanced nicely against the richness of the lobster and creaminess of the lobster bisque). I immediately announced that I would have been happy have that course four times during the course of the evening.
While I did not anticipate it, my third course -- the Lemongrass Cured Duck Breast -- was even better than the Vanilla Poached Lobster. Cooked to a lovely medium rare, the tender and succulent slivers of duck was served with a "Fo-Mole" sauce (a spiced chocolate-esque puree) and what I would describe as a "truffle" of foie gras. This immediately jumps into the discussion for best dish I've ever eaten. And, as a finishing touch, this course was served with "gingered" brussel sprouts which had a pleasant sweet and spicy Asian undertone to the flavor.
For my fourth course, I ordered the Filet of Beef. Served with a rich and luxurious roasted grape wine sauce, atop a porcini mushroom raviolo, the plate was pleasing to the eye. And, resting astride the edge of the plate, a palette of Foie Butter rested on one side and a dusting of (what I would describe as) five-spice on the other side. While not as outstanding as the duck, the beef was a pleasant course with which to end the meal.
Given the various techniques employed by Chef Morou, I would be remiss if I didn't mention (albeit briefly) my companion's meal. She began with the Tender Beef Tartare. Served Stonehenge style (i.e., served in two towers with a lintel), Chef Morou served the tartare with four options. The most interesting was the mustard "yolk" (mustard chemically bound to appear like an egg yolk), but the best option (of those I tried) was the spices (which included curry). Certainly, a playful and unique take on tartare.
For her second course, my companion had the Diver Scallop. Due to a milk allergy, she couldn't have it with the "melon seed milk" described on the menu; however, they prepared the scallop beautifully with a cool bacon powder. For her third course, she had the salmon. Again, it looked beautiful, although my companion indicated that the duck was her preferred dish of the evening as well.
While my companion repeatedly noticed that Chef Morou's dishes were sweet (or emphasized the sweetness of the ingredients), I found his cooking style to be pleasing to my palette. Colorful, flavorful, playful, and imaginative, I would highly recommend a return visit to Farrah Olivia.
CONCLUSIONS
Food: 10/10
Service: 3.5/5
Errata: 4/5
Total: 17.5/20
$$$$
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
Sunday, February 13, 2011
BRABO Tasting Room (Alexandria, VA)
THE MEAL
"Wild Mushrooms" Wood Fired Tart (with bacon and goat cheese)
"Braised Pork Belly" Wood Fired Tart (with roasted poblano, pickled red onion, and goat cheese)
THOUGHTS
We stumbled into BRABO Tasting Room on a whim, mostly because we were swinging by the Butcher's Board to seek what food products they carried (specifically, to determine whether they carried lardo). The Tasting Room is one of Robert Wiedmaier's three establishments in Alexandria, the casual bistro/trattoria option.
We opted to share two of the wood fired tarts (read: pizzas). The first, "Wild Mushrooms," was nicely flavored, albeit unimaginative. As I commented during lunch, I have come to expect the exceptional or unique when ordering non-traditional pizzas...and Wild Mushrooms disappointed. Nonetheless, the Wild Mushrooms provided an opportunity to evaluate the "tart" dough...and the dough really works at the Tasting Room. Thin and chewy, the Tasting Room delivered a dough that "crunched-up" nicely and provided a wonderful base for a pizza.
The "Braised Pork Belly," using the same delightful dough, epitomized the imagination that I expect when ordering such a specialty pizza. The braised pork belly had a more delicate/subtle flavor than other pork bellies I've enjoyed, with a tenderness similar to a braised short rib. Just goes to show that braising meat can produce magical results. In my opinion, though, what made the pizza was the roasted poblano. Adding smokiness and spice, the roasted poblano elevated this "wood fired tart" to something special. Throw on some cilantro and red onion, and this "tart" really worked it.
While the food was flavorful and fresh, I do not think I would return to the Tasting Room if the only option were the wood fired tarts. There are a number of pizza joints in the area which are producing pizzas better than those at The Tasting Room.
CONCLUSIONS
Food: 7/10
Service: 3/5
Errata: 3/5
Total: 13/20
$$
"Wild Mushrooms" Wood Fired Tart (with bacon and goat cheese)
"Braised Pork Belly" Wood Fired Tart (with roasted poblano, pickled red onion, and goat cheese)
THOUGHTS
We stumbled into BRABO Tasting Room on a whim, mostly because we were swinging by the Butcher's Board to seek what food products they carried (specifically, to determine whether they carried lardo). The Tasting Room is one of Robert Wiedmaier's three establishments in Alexandria, the casual bistro/trattoria option.
We opted to share two of the wood fired tarts (read: pizzas). The first, "Wild Mushrooms," was nicely flavored, albeit unimaginative. As I commented during lunch, I have come to expect the exceptional or unique when ordering non-traditional pizzas...and Wild Mushrooms disappointed. Nonetheless, the Wild Mushrooms provided an opportunity to evaluate the "tart" dough...and the dough really works at the Tasting Room. Thin and chewy, the Tasting Room delivered a dough that "crunched-up" nicely and provided a wonderful base for a pizza.
The "Braised Pork Belly," using the same delightful dough, epitomized the imagination that I expect when ordering such a specialty pizza. The braised pork belly had a more delicate/subtle flavor than other pork bellies I've enjoyed, with a tenderness similar to a braised short rib. Just goes to show that braising meat can produce magical results. In my opinion, though, what made the pizza was the roasted poblano. Adding smokiness and spice, the roasted poblano elevated this "wood fired tart" to something special. Throw on some cilantro and red onion, and this "tart" really worked it.
While the food was flavorful and fresh, I do not think I would return to the Tasting Room if the only option were the wood fired tarts. There are a number of pizza joints in the area which are producing pizzas better than those at The Tasting Room.
CONCLUSIONS
Food: 7/10
Service: 3/5
Errata: 3/5
Total: 13/20
$$
Hank's Oyster Bar (Alexandria, VA)
THE MEAL
Drink: Clos de la Fontaine (2007), Muscadet
Oysters: New Point Comfort (Va.), Dragon Creek (Va.), Hama Hama (Wa.), Naked Cowboy (Wa.)
Dessert: Key Lime Pie
THOUGHTS
We've been talking about hitting up Hank's for a while now, but did not make it there until now. We showed up at about 7:45 pm, got our name on the waiting list (having failed to call ahead), and were directed to the bar at Vermillion (as the bar at Hank's didn't have any room).
While this isn't a review of Vermillion, I would note that they do have a nice selection of beer on draught, including Stone IPA (which I selected). The barkeep also provided a sample of Founder's Red Rye, which would be worth a second sample given anther opportunity. About half way through our drinks, Hank's called to let us know that our table was ready.
Hank's is a long, narrow restaurant, effectively divided into a front room and a back room by the bar. Given the comings-and-goings of people and the size of the front room, fortunately they sat us in the back room.
We began the evening by ordering a bottle of Muscadet. While I enjoyed the Muscadet (as a pleasant compliment to the oysters we would have), Hank's carries a reasonably priced wine list with several interesting options.
For dinner, we each ordered a dozen oysters from approximately eight options on the chalkboard (which changes from day-to-day based upon the oysters on site). Being somewhat of a locavore, I ordered the two Virginia oysters on the menu: the New Point Comforts and the Witch Ducks. Of course, they were out of the Witch Ducks, so they suggested Dragon Creek oysters (also from Virginia, but not on the chalkboard). The fact that I was already going "off-menu" on my first trip brought me great satisfaction.
The New Point Comforts were mild in flavor, but delicious. Having had New Point's on several occasions, I knew that I was getting myself into something good. The Dragon Creek's, however, were new to me. What distinguished the Dragon Creek's were the depth of the shell (and relatively small diameter), but, man, were they flavorful. After confirming that the Dragon Creek's were procured directly from a small oyster farmer, I couldn't help but order another half dozen to round out the evening. For what it's worth, my companion shared that the Dragon Creek's were also her favorite oysters of the evening.
My companion ordered the Hama Hama's and the Naked Cowboys, both from Washington State. Both the Hama Hama's and the Naked Cowboys appeared darker in color than the two Virginia oysters (which I found a little off-putting); however, the flavor on both was delightful. I found the Hama Hama's particularly on-point, what with the classic cucumber aftertaste associated with Washington State oysters.
At the conclusion of the meal, I couldn't help but order a slice of the Key Lime Pie. Having seen a piece as we walked to our table, I knew this would be a delightful way to finish the meal. I was not disappointed. With a buttery graham cracker crust and a homemade whipped cream topping, this was an outstanding example of an American tradition.
At the end of the meal, our server brought us a little ramekin filled with shards of dark chocolate. This finishing touch added to my already positive feelings about Hank's. Needless to say, I hope to return. Soon.
CONCLUSIONS
Food: 9/10
Service: 4/5
Errata: 5/5
Total: 18/20
$$
Drink: Clos de la Fontaine (2007), Muscadet
Oysters: New Point Comfort (Va.), Dragon Creek (Va.), Hama Hama (Wa.), Naked Cowboy (Wa.)
Dessert: Key Lime Pie
THOUGHTS
We've been talking about hitting up Hank's for a while now, but did not make it there until now. We showed up at about 7:45 pm, got our name on the waiting list (having failed to call ahead), and were directed to the bar at Vermillion (as the bar at Hank's didn't have any room).
While this isn't a review of Vermillion, I would note that they do have a nice selection of beer on draught, including Stone IPA (which I selected). The barkeep also provided a sample of Founder's Red Rye, which would be worth a second sample given anther opportunity. About half way through our drinks, Hank's called to let us know that our table was ready.
Hank's is a long, narrow restaurant, effectively divided into a front room and a back room by the bar. Given the comings-and-goings of people and the size of the front room, fortunately they sat us in the back room.
We began the evening by ordering a bottle of Muscadet. While I enjoyed the Muscadet (as a pleasant compliment to the oysters we would have), Hank's carries a reasonably priced wine list with several interesting options.
For dinner, we each ordered a dozen oysters from approximately eight options on the chalkboard (which changes from day-to-day based upon the oysters on site). Being somewhat of a locavore, I ordered the two Virginia oysters on the menu: the New Point Comforts and the Witch Ducks. Of course, they were out of the Witch Ducks, so they suggested Dragon Creek oysters (also from Virginia, but not on the chalkboard). The fact that I was already going "off-menu" on my first trip brought me great satisfaction.
The New Point Comforts were mild in flavor, but delicious. Having had New Point's on several occasions, I knew that I was getting myself into something good. The Dragon Creek's, however, were new to me. What distinguished the Dragon Creek's were the depth of the shell (and relatively small diameter), but, man, were they flavorful. After confirming that the Dragon Creek's were procured directly from a small oyster farmer, I couldn't help but order another half dozen to round out the evening. For what it's worth, my companion shared that the Dragon Creek's were also her favorite oysters of the evening.
My companion ordered the Hama Hama's and the Naked Cowboys, both from Washington State. Both the Hama Hama's and the Naked Cowboys appeared darker in color than the two Virginia oysters (which I found a little off-putting); however, the flavor on both was delightful. I found the Hama Hama's particularly on-point, what with the classic cucumber aftertaste associated with Washington State oysters.
At the conclusion of the meal, I couldn't help but order a slice of the Key Lime Pie. Having seen a piece as we walked to our table, I knew this would be a delightful way to finish the meal. I was not disappointed. With a buttery graham cracker crust and a homemade whipped cream topping, this was an outstanding example of an American tradition.
At the end of the meal, our server brought us a little ramekin filled with shards of dark chocolate. This finishing touch added to my already positive feelings about Hank's. Needless to say, I hope to return. Soon.
CONCLUSIONS
Food: 9/10
Service: 4/5
Errata: 5/5
Total: 18/20
$$
The Warehouse Bar & Grill (Alexandria, VA)
THE MEAL
Drink: Domaine de Guerande, Muscadet de Savre et Maine (2007)
Soups: She Crab Soup, Red Seafood Chowder
Appetizer: Crawfish & Shrimp Beignets
Entree: Seafood Omelette
THOUGHTS
Before spending the day and evening in Old Town Alexandria, we had to nourish ourselves with sustenance, N'awlins style. What better way to start off a meal than a light, crisp Muscadet to enhance a seafood-centric meal?
Looking around the dining room and enjoying a glass of wine, The Warehouse captured New Orleans perfectly. White linen table cloths, with eccentric wall decor. Similar to the caricatures at The Palm, The Warehouse's walls are lined with playful portraits -- some 3-D, others painted, still others sketched. The atmosphere at The Warehouse matched its menu.
For lunch, I opted for a bowl of the She Crab Soup and Crawfish & Shrimp Beignets. In the interest of full disclosure, I selected The Warehouse because, while perusing various menus and reviews, I noticed the She Crab Soup on the menu. Having a soft spot in my heart for my mother's She Crab Soup and having heard that my mother was making "Crab Soup" earlier in the week (turns out, it was Crab and Corn Chowder), I have been longing for She Crab Soup. And, while very different than my mother's She Crab Soup, The Warehouse's version did not disappoint.
Unlike my mother's version (and most other versions), The Warehouse employed a delicate hand with the sherry in their She Crab Soup. Instead of a sherry-forward flavor, The Warehouse's version had a light peppery kick that reminded me of the cuisine of New Orleans. While it doesn't replace my mother's soup, I would certainly be willing to go back and have more of The Warehouse's She Crab Soup.
*My companion ordered a cup of the Red Seafood Chowder. It disappeared very quickly...without offering a single spoonful. While I was told that it was one of the best soups she had ever tasted, I can neither confirm nor deny this conclusion.
To supplement our soups, we ordered the Crawfish & Shrimp Beignets and the Seafood Omelette. The beignets were unique and delicious, albeit inconsistent. Specifically, one of the beignets was undercooked slightly, leaving a few bites tasting "flour-y." The flavors, however, were outstanding, as the lemon and garlic aioli enhanced the fresh seafood.
The last dish -- the Seafood Omelette -- disappointed. A daily special, the Seafood Omelette included small shrimps, crawfish, and lobster sauteed with cajun seasonings. While the seafood would have ordinarily been sauteed with butter and the omelette topped with a hollandaise, we custom-ordered the Seafood Omelette to accommodate my companion's dietary requirements. The seafood was fresh and flavorful, but without the fat of the butter and hollandaise (and potentially some cheese), the omelette lacked fat. The Warehouse served fries with the Seafood Omelette. Delicately crisped, a potato-forward flavor, and deft hand with the seasoning, the Warehouse's fries did not disappoint.
CONCLUSIONS
Food: 7.5/10
Service: 3/5
Errata: 4/5
Total: 14.5/20
$$
Drink: Domaine de Guerande, Muscadet de Savre et Maine (2007)
Soups: She Crab Soup, Red Seafood Chowder
Appetizer: Crawfish & Shrimp Beignets
Entree: Seafood Omelette
THOUGHTS
Before spending the day and evening in Old Town Alexandria, we had to nourish ourselves with sustenance, N'awlins style. What better way to start off a meal than a light, crisp Muscadet to enhance a seafood-centric meal?
Looking around the dining room and enjoying a glass of wine, The Warehouse captured New Orleans perfectly. White linen table cloths, with eccentric wall decor. Similar to the caricatures at The Palm, The Warehouse's walls are lined with playful portraits -- some 3-D, others painted, still others sketched. The atmosphere at The Warehouse matched its menu.
For lunch, I opted for a bowl of the She Crab Soup and Crawfish & Shrimp Beignets. In the interest of full disclosure, I selected The Warehouse because, while perusing various menus and reviews, I noticed the She Crab Soup on the menu. Having a soft spot in my heart for my mother's She Crab Soup and having heard that my mother was making "Crab Soup" earlier in the week (turns out, it was Crab and Corn Chowder), I have been longing for She Crab Soup. And, while very different than my mother's She Crab Soup, The Warehouse's version did not disappoint.
Unlike my mother's version (and most other versions), The Warehouse employed a delicate hand with the sherry in their She Crab Soup. Instead of a sherry-forward flavor, The Warehouse's version had a light peppery kick that reminded me of the cuisine of New Orleans. While it doesn't replace my mother's soup, I would certainly be willing to go back and have more of The Warehouse's She Crab Soup.
*My companion ordered a cup of the Red Seafood Chowder. It disappeared very quickly...without offering a single spoonful. While I was told that it was one of the best soups she had ever tasted, I can neither confirm nor deny this conclusion.
To supplement our soups, we ordered the Crawfish & Shrimp Beignets and the Seafood Omelette. The beignets were unique and delicious, albeit inconsistent. Specifically, one of the beignets was undercooked slightly, leaving a few bites tasting "flour-y." The flavors, however, were outstanding, as the lemon and garlic aioli enhanced the fresh seafood.
The last dish -- the Seafood Omelette -- disappointed. A daily special, the Seafood Omelette included small shrimps, crawfish, and lobster sauteed with cajun seasonings. While the seafood would have ordinarily been sauteed with butter and the omelette topped with a hollandaise, we custom-ordered the Seafood Omelette to accommodate my companion's dietary requirements. The seafood was fresh and flavorful, but without the fat of the butter and hollandaise (and potentially some cheese), the omelette lacked fat. The Warehouse served fries with the Seafood Omelette. Delicately crisped, a potato-forward flavor, and deft hand with the seasoning, the Warehouse's fries did not disappoint.
CONCLUSIONS
Food: 7.5/10
Service: 3/5
Errata: 4/5
Total: 14.5/20
$$
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