Carnevino (Las Vegas, NV)

THE MEAL
Wine: Roederer "Brut Primier" NV and Costasera, Masi 2006 (Amarone)
Appetizers: Big Eye Tuna 'Crudo' (raw tuna sashimi with sea beans and lemon) and House Cured Pastrami (with local duck egg and butternut squash)
Entree: Dry Aged Bone In Ribeye
Side: Black Fetuccini (crab, jalapenos, and shallots)
Dessert: Dark Chocolate Cake (with vanilla huckleberries) and 'Vanilla Bean Affogato'

THOUGHTS
Seated in the wine room, we ordered the Amarone which was immediately retrieved from one of the cabinets in the room, provided to us for our approval, and taken away for decanting. While waiting for our appetizers and wine, the sommelier -- Kirk -- brought us a complementary glass of Roederer to whet our appetites as we noshed on fresh ciabatta (served with killer rosemary lardo) and airy cheese puffs.

In addition to the Big Eye Tuna 'Crudo' (which we ordered), Kirk brought us House Cured Pastrami, compliments of the house. Between the champagne and the pastrami, it certainly helps to have friends with pull. Needless to say, the pastrami was amazing (made using deckle of beef) and complemented the Amarone beautifully. The pastrami was served with a local duck egg (from a farm just north of Las Vegas) atop a bed of lightly dressed arugula with shards of butternut squash. The pastrami easily outshined the crudo (although the crudo was delicious).

Then came the piece de resistance: the dry aged bone in ribeye. Apparently, Carnevino dry ages their USDA Prime beef longer than any other restaurant in the country, resulting in a highly concentrated flavor. I know now that this steak will be the steak against which all future steaks are to be judged.

To serve the steak, a cart with a white cloth and carving board is wheeled out and, from underneath, a three-inch thick steak is magically revealed, glistening in an aged splendor. The server immediately deboned the steak and plated these bones, encouraging us to gnaw on the best part of the steak. Unafraid of digging in, we immediately attacked the bones, delighting in the perfectly seasoned meat clinging to the bone. The server informed us that, despite his recommendation, many people forego the experience of the meat closest to the bone. As "this is an Italian steakhouse, not a French steakhouse," he certainly approved of our caveman-like behavior.

While we were preoccupied with the bone, the server carved up the three-inch thick ribeye into thin slices (as a beef tenderloin might be served). As served, each bite of steak included a bite of the seasoned exterior of the steak and the succulent interior of the steak. Although Carnevino offers several sauces for the steak, I cannot imagine sullying this cut of beef with anything other than the salt-rosemary-oil crust. Needless to say, I already am planning my next trip for this beef.

We also ordered the Black Fetuccini, which served as a light counterpoint to the whimsical steak. While the blend of crab, jalapeno, and shallots proved successful, I would have preferred a more aggressive hand with the crab and jalapenos (if only to better counterbalance the steak). As my first experience at a Mario Batali restaurant, I think I was slightly underwhelmed by the pasta which I had built up in my mind and which did not equal the extraordinary heights of the steak. I have to imagine, however, that other of Batali's pastas may be able to equal the ribeye.

Finally, we concluded our meal with a dark chocolate cake. A flat, round disk, the dark chocolate cake was the perfect bittersweet conclusion to the meal. While not an earth shattering dessert, the presentation and the use of an unique berry counterpoint certainly elevated the dish to something I would expect to get at a high end restaurant. Likewise, the Vanilla Bean Affogato offered a unique presentation of a chilled coffee cup with vanilla ice cream, with the server pouring a shot of espresso atop the ice cream.

CONCLUSIONS
Food (9.5/10)
Service (5/5)
Errata (5/5)
Total (19.5/20)
Price $$$$